Eau Suave by Parfum d'Empire

*****
Year: 2005

Notes: bergamot, tangerine, raspberry, apricot, peach, coriander, pepper, saffron, tea rose, Souvenir de la Malmaison, patchouli, Bourbon vanilla, oakmoss, musk
Described as a "piquant rose cocktail", Eau Suave starts out reasonably well before stuttering and petering out long before the drydown.

With suggestive red berries and herbaceous chords, the opening is intensely fruity, alongside some pepper and a generous serving of saffron. However, where Souvenir de la Malmaison is classified as a hybrid Bourbon rose, one was expecting a stronger rose profile. Beyond that, the composition is strikingly derivative and feeble.

Resting on a slightly powdery chypré base, the quality of the ingredients are apparent but its general execution leaves a lot to be desired. Rapidly regressing into something soft, wispy and incredibly apologetic, only muted and bland traces of rose, vanilla and woods are discernible for the rest of its lifespan.

Staying power is average with very low projection.


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