Year: 2011
Notes: elemi, pink pepper, saffron, iris, amber, oud, Bourbon vanilla, sandalwood, castoreum
Comment: Ambrarem is part of the Édition Rare: White Gold Trilogy
With the first Édition Rare trilogy, perfumer Gérald Ghislain focuses on three "materials long used in traditional perfumery" – rose, amber and petrol.
Ambrarem is a dark leathery rendition of amber. Showcasing a resinous demeanour throughout, it commences with light green and salty flourishes to a smoky, inky and gasoline-like woody-amber premise. With a subdued vanillic underlining, the iris is faintly discernible but one is hard-pressed to detect any oud. As for the presence of castoreum, it doesn't smell animalic enough and is probably of the synthetic variety.
Possessing moderate projection and good tenacity, one finds the composition somewhat hollow. It also doesn't help matters that it ultimately smells like Bourbon vanilla, blended with styrax (also known as liquidambar) and Choya Loban (a type of distilled Indian frankincense that's sombre, smoky, leathery and resinous, with woody-balsamic undertones).
Described as an animal oud, it doesn't even come close.
Ambrarem is a dark leathery rendition of amber. Showcasing a resinous demeanour throughout, it commences with light green and salty flourishes to a smoky, inky and gasoline-like woody-amber premise. With a subdued vanillic underlining, the iris is faintly discernible but one is hard-pressed to detect any oud. As for the presence of castoreum, it doesn't smell animalic enough and is probably of the synthetic variety.
Possessing moderate projection and good tenacity, one finds the composition somewhat hollow. It also doesn't help matters that it ultimately smells like Bourbon vanilla, blended with styrax (also known as liquidambar) and Choya Loban (a type of distilled Indian frankincense that's sombre, smoky, leathery and resinous, with woody-balsamic undertones).
Described as an animal oud, it doesn't even come close.
