Year: 2013
Notes: angelica root, galbanum, violet leaf, cassie, water hyacinth, hawthorn, orris, heliotrope, vernal grass, hay, coumarin, anisaldehyde, tonka bean, oakmoss, ambrettolide, cresols
Anatole Lebreton is a new and upcoming French niche perfumer, and L'Eau de Merzhin takes it inspiration from childhood memories of the great outdoors.
Described as "the perfume of a childhood spent running around in meadows, venturing through the deep mossy woods and the mysterious moors of the Breton countryside", it commences with an exuberantly raw and bitter freshness.
Opening with some angelica root, one instantly discerns a sharp body cream aroma. With some galbanum and violet leaf providing a verdant touch to the top notes, the light florals are more aromatic than floral. With regards to the orris and heliotrope, they aren't noticeably powdery, but the orris does provide a vegetal earthiness.
With vernal grass, hay and coumarin in the heart, the greenness detected at the very beginning is successfully maintained. It's also very well-blended, without the coumarin being overwhelming. As it approaches the base, the aroma is somewhat redolent of wild grass and fresh hay.
However, even at this stage, that piercing body cream aura still persists, which interferes with one's enjoyment of the composition. Chances are it's due to a heavy-handed serving of anisaldehyde – an aroma chemical with a strong almond odour and spicy-floral nuances. Whatever it is, it does ruin the overall experience.
During the late-drydown, traces of oakmoss and musk remain discernible. But the performance on the skin is so faint that it's almost completely overlooked. Poor tenacity, coupled with an overdose of anisaldehyde, fails to completely win one over, thus making L'Eau de Merzhin just another green-themed niche fragrance that misses the mark.
Described as "the perfume of a childhood spent running around in meadows, venturing through the deep mossy woods and the mysterious moors of the Breton countryside", it commences with an exuberantly raw and bitter freshness.
Opening with some angelica root, one instantly discerns a sharp body cream aroma. With some galbanum and violet leaf providing a verdant touch to the top notes, the light florals are more aromatic than floral. With regards to the orris and heliotrope, they aren't noticeably powdery, but the orris does provide a vegetal earthiness.
With vernal grass, hay and coumarin in the heart, the greenness detected at the very beginning is successfully maintained. It's also very well-blended, without the coumarin being overwhelming. As it approaches the base, the aroma is somewhat redolent of wild grass and fresh hay.
However, even at this stage, that piercing body cream aura still persists, which interferes with one's enjoyment of the composition. Chances are it's due to a heavy-handed serving of anisaldehyde – an aroma chemical with a strong almond odour and spicy-floral nuances. Whatever it is, it does ruin the overall experience.
During the late-drydown, traces of oakmoss and musk remain discernible. But the performance on the skin is so faint that it's almost completely overlooked. Poor tenacity, coupled with an overdose of anisaldehyde, fails to completely win one over, thus making L'Eau de Merzhin just another green-themed niche fragrance that misses the mark.
