Lavanda d'Oriente by Esperienze Olfattive

*****
Year: 2011

Notes: bergamot, lavender, patchouli, cistus, Atlas cedar, vetiver, tonka bean, oakmoss
With a professional background in chemistry, and a course with the Grasse Institute of Perfumery (GIP) under his belt, Roberto Dario is the founder of the Italian niche house, Esperienze Olfattive.

Using all natural ingredients, his creations are masterfully blended and are evocative of the traditional Eaux de Cologne of yesteryear. Available in Eau de Parfum concentration, Roberto's compositions are largely fresh and organic, and often possess a lavender theme. Lavanda d'Oriente is one study of this accord.

The first thing that one notices is how, unlike Roberto's other lavender-themed offerings, the floral aspect of the lavender is allowed to breathe. This is probably because it's also the only lavender-themed release that doesn't feature any lavandin, which tends to be drier and more camphorous. As a result, the lavender is sparkling and fresh, exhibiting various olfactory properties of this material.

Its overall aroma is rustic and serene, as a woody-amber backdrop materialises. With a smooth transition from beginning to end, the patchouli, cistus and oakmoss are clearly identifiable, while the cedar gradually provides a darker and woodier denouement.

While one finds it enjoyable, it seems to be missing something towards the drydown. Possibly some animalic musk could have made a difference but, after the opening, its oriental woodiness is somewhat bland. And then there's the lack of tenacity and sillage, which doesn't help matters.

Although Lavanda d'Oriente isn't a personal favourite, it still has some redeeming qualities.


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