Ambre Doré by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

*****
Year: 2012

Notes: clary sage, coriander, saffron, geranium, amber, myrrh, styrax, oud, vetiver, sandalwood, ambergris

Comment: Ambre Doré is part of Les Accords Mystères Collection
Originally released as Soir d'Orient, in 2006, as a limited edition both in the Middle East and Paris (where only 2,000 bottles were produced), chances of Ambre Doré being the same formulation are relatively slim. However, compared to Ambre Précieux, Ambre Doré is a more animalic, leathery and woodier affair.

Revealing saffron and oud accents, the opening is less spicy with a distinctly aromatic demeanour, courtesy of the clary sage, coriander and geranium. The oud is slightly animalic but doesn't go out of its way to overwhelm the amber. Instead, it tames any sweetness, while complimenting the vetiver, sandalwood and ambergris base. With the later emergence of myrrh and styrax, the mid notes yield a leathery twist.

As it further evolves, gasoline facets can be discerned amongst the barnyard woodiness. However, even though Ambre Doré's amber accord becomes more obvious, especially towards the drydown, it lacks the resinous and balsamic heights of Ambre Précieux. In addition, the ambergris is much less striking, with the emphasis being placed more on the faecal woody foundation. As a result, one finds Ambre Doré less captivating and lacking in the sensuality of its predecessor.

Overall, Ambre Doré is a respectable flanker, and would appeal more to those who would have preferred Ambre Précieux to be less sweet and more masculine. However, with decent staying power and moderate sillage, one still favours the original.


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