Year: 2011
Notes: bergamot, Mentuccia mint, black pepper, clove, liquorice, galbanum, tomato leaf, ivy, geranium, raspberry honey, labdanum, amber, benzoin, vanilla, sandalwood, white musks
Comment: Métaboles is part of the Prêt-à-Porter Collection
Ys Uzac is a Swiss niche house, established in 2011 by perfumer Vincent Micotti. Under the artistic direction of Vera S. Yeoh, their ethos is "individuality, classical chic and extravagant expressions". With the name taken from a 1960s concerto by Henri Dutilleux, Métaboles is a classified as a contemporary fougère.
With an aromatic-green opening, similar to Frédéric Malle's Geranium pour Monsieur, the verdant acuteness of both the galbanum and leafy facets are disappointingly ephemeral. However, the mint and geranium are evident for a while, as the clove and liquorice infuse a delicate aromatic sweetness to the proceedings.
During the mid notes, one is hard-pressed to detect any resins, but the raspberry honey appears to spearhead this stage. Some benzoin manages to peek through but, by this point, the sandalwood and white musks are in the process of hitting their stride. With most of the interesting accords having almost completely dispersed, all that remains is a humdrum musky oriental base.
Once again, it's another Ys Uzac creation that starts off promisingly, but is let down by a bland base of resins, woods and white musks. Sillage is no better than its siblings but it does persist for at least eight hours, which is of very little consolation.
As always with this nice house, it's well-blended but its general performance is insubstantial.
With an aromatic-green opening, similar to Frédéric Malle's Geranium pour Monsieur, the verdant acuteness of both the galbanum and leafy facets are disappointingly ephemeral. However, the mint and geranium are evident for a while, as the clove and liquorice infuse a delicate aromatic sweetness to the proceedings.
During the mid notes, one is hard-pressed to detect any resins, but the raspberry honey appears to spearhead this stage. Some benzoin manages to peek through but, by this point, the sandalwood and white musks are in the process of hitting their stride. With most of the interesting accords having almost completely dispersed, all that remains is a humdrum musky oriental base.
Once again, it's another Ys Uzac creation that starts off promisingly, but is let down by a bland base of resins, woods and white musks. Sillage is no better than its siblings but it does persist for at least eight hours, which is of very little consolation.
As always with this nice house, it's well-blended but its general performance is insubstantial.
