Year: 2011
Notes: Calabrian green mandarin, Paraguayan petitgrain, Philippine elemi, apricot, honey, Chinese osmanthus, jasmine, Laotian oud, Indonesian patchouli, Indian cypriol, Atlas cedar, ambergris, musk
Comment: Oud / Oudh Osmanthus is part of Les Nombres d'Or Collection
When the late Mona di Orio first announced launching her interpretation of oud, one wasn't pleased at all. With so many synthetic oud fragrances available, one was hoping for some niche houses to resist the temptation of joining the 'oud club'. But, after sampling Oud, one has been left both impressed and pleasantly surprised.
Since genuine oud oil has become increasingly scarce and more expensive, one was surprised to discover that Oud would contain high-quality Laotian oud oil – especially as this variety of oud oil is now extremely difficult to attain (wild Laotian agarwood trees are now an endangered species). With syrupy sweet, animalic and leathery undertones, Mona's creation certainly contains the real thing. But what's even more astounding is the degree of complexity and originality it encompasses.
Unlike most oud fragrances, there's no reliance on the now clichéd coupling of rose and saffron. Instead, Mona incorporated a complementary union of osmanthus, apricot and honey, alongside a gentle serving of citrus and elemi (in addition to a base of dark smoky woods and musks). The oud is present throughout the composition's development, but remains soft and modest. All in all, the blending is velvety smooth, warm, refined and utterly beautiful, with understated jasmine embellishments.
Oud isn't really about showcasing Laotian oud, but rather demonstrating the juxtaposition between Laotian oud and the honeyed nectar-infused sweetness of the osmanthus. Providing moderate sillage and longevity of under six hours, it's easily wearable, and bestows both an exotic and esoteric aura.
Yes, it's considerably expensive. Yes, from a reliable source, some quality oud oil can probably be acquired for a similar price. And, yes, it could have had better sillage and been longer lasting. However, as it stands, Oud is Mona's crowning achievement and remains one of the most unique Western renditions of oud around.
Since genuine oud oil has become increasingly scarce and more expensive, one was surprised to discover that Oud would contain high-quality Laotian oud oil – especially as this variety of oud oil is now extremely difficult to attain (wild Laotian agarwood trees are now an endangered species). With syrupy sweet, animalic and leathery undertones, Mona's creation certainly contains the real thing. But what's even more astounding is the degree of complexity and originality it encompasses.
Unlike most oud fragrances, there's no reliance on the now clichéd coupling of rose and saffron. Instead, Mona incorporated a complementary union of osmanthus, apricot and honey, alongside a gentle serving of citrus and elemi (in addition to a base of dark smoky woods and musks). The oud is present throughout the composition's development, but remains soft and modest. All in all, the blending is velvety smooth, warm, refined and utterly beautiful, with understated jasmine embellishments.
Oud isn't really about showcasing Laotian oud, but rather demonstrating the juxtaposition between Laotian oud and the honeyed nectar-infused sweetness of the osmanthus. Providing moderate sillage and longevity of under six hours, it's easily wearable, and bestows both an exotic and esoteric aura.
Yes, it's considerably expensive. Yes, from a reliable source, some quality oud oil can probably be acquired for a similar price. And, yes, it could have had better sillage and been longer lasting. However, as it stands, Oud is Mona's crowning achievement and remains one of the most unique Western renditions of oud around.
