Year: 2013
Notes: citrus, lavender, essence mixture for Colonia della Esperis, styrax, resins, castoreum
Comment: Original formulation review
The story behind Cologne Reloaded isn't one that you encounter everyday, which makes it both interesting and all the more unique.
Previously forgotten in an old pharmaceutical laboratory, Bogue founder and perfumer, Antonio Gardoni, had the good fortune of acquiring roughly forty bottles of essence mixtures, dating back to the 1950s. With most of the contents still sealed and well-preserved, he proceeded to reconstruct one of the sets of essence mixtures, for a vintage composition called Colonia della Esperis, using the original formula that accompanied the bottles.
It was only after some musing and experimenting that he decided to tinker with the end result, by adding some contemporary components to increase the concentration from 4% to 15%. After macerating this unusual blend in a small barrel, made of juniper wood, he decided to share the end-result as a limited edition release.
With a backstory such as this, one can only be thankful for being given the opportunity to sample a little piece of perfume history. With regards to the contemporary chords, citruses and lavender were added to compensate for the vintage Eau de Cologne's loss of top notes, various resins were used to provide a stronger base, and an animalic edge was also incorporated by way of some castoreum.
Cologne Reloaded is a very smoky and camphorous citrus-aromatic, opening with gentle swirls of citruses and lavender, against a dark leathery canvas of natural musk. The marriage between the vintage and contemporary aromas is both striking and well-blended. With the vintage aspect of the blend always at the forefront, yet never compromised, it's both herbaceous and medicinal. As for the contemporary aspect, the leathery smokiness of the styrax and castoreum are never too far away.
As it further evolves, the astringent opening softens somewhat, but the smokiness still continues to linger. One can also identify some labdanum and, along with the other resins, it permeates an almost powdery sweetness. During the final stages, all that remains is a sultry and mellow animalic purr, in an antiquated sense.
With moderate projection, one's only reservation is its longevity. However, under the circumstances mentioned above, this could be considered a moot point. Besides, the increased concentration is closer to that of an Eau de Toilette, which is perfectly fine but one digresses. Personally, one is just grateful to have been made privy to this project, and one is looking forward to future creations from this house.
Offering an invaluable glimpse into the golden age of perfumery, it also embodies the true spirit of modern niche perfumery. Such a fragrance this exquisite should, at the very least, be experienced.
Previously forgotten in an old pharmaceutical laboratory, Bogue founder and perfumer, Antonio Gardoni, had the good fortune of acquiring roughly forty bottles of essence mixtures, dating back to the 1950s. With most of the contents still sealed and well-preserved, he proceeded to reconstruct one of the sets of essence mixtures, for a vintage composition called Colonia della Esperis, using the original formula that accompanied the bottles.
It was only after some musing and experimenting that he decided to tinker with the end result, by adding some contemporary components to increase the concentration from 4% to 15%. After macerating this unusual blend in a small barrel, made of juniper wood, he decided to share the end-result as a limited edition release.
With a backstory such as this, one can only be thankful for being given the opportunity to sample a little piece of perfume history. With regards to the contemporary chords, citruses and lavender were added to compensate for the vintage Eau de Cologne's loss of top notes, various resins were used to provide a stronger base, and an animalic edge was also incorporated by way of some castoreum.
Cologne Reloaded is a very smoky and camphorous citrus-aromatic, opening with gentle swirls of citruses and lavender, against a dark leathery canvas of natural musk. The marriage between the vintage and contemporary aromas is both striking and well-blended. With the vintage aspect of the blend always at the forefront, yet never compromised, it's both herbaceous and medicinal. As for the contemporary aspect, the leathery smokiness of the styrax and castoreum are never too far away.
As it further evolves, the astringent opening softens somewhat, but the smokiness still continues to linger. One can also identify some labdanum and, along with the other resins, it permeates an almost powdery sweetness. During the final stages, all that remains is a sultry and mellow animalic purr, in an antiquated sense.
With moderate projection, one's only reservation is its longevity. However, under the circumstances mentioned above, this could be considered a moot point. Besides, the increased concentration is closer to that of an Eau de Toilette, which is perfectly fine but one digresses. Personally, one is just grateful to have been made privy to this project, and one is looking forward to future creations from this house.
Offering an invaluable glimpse into the golden age of perfumery, it also embodies the true spirit of modern niche perfumery. Such a fragrance this exquisite should, at the very least, be experienced.
