Wode by Boudicca

*****
Year: 2008

Notes: clary sage, coriander, juniper berry, nutmeg, cardamom, saffron, tuberose, angelica root, black hemlock, opium, tonka bean, amber, labdanum, styrax, leather, tree moss, musks

Comment: Eau de Parfum review

Wode is derived from the word 'woad' – the name of a flowering plant from which a vibrant blue dye is extracted and, in paste form, was allegedly used by Queen Boudicca / Boadicea as war paint. When exposed to air, the paste's initial muddy hue turns into a deep shade of blue, thus inspiring Wode's reverse concept of oxidisation: vanishing paint.

Within moments of applying, the cobalt blue pigment, from the sprayed mist, fades completely, leaving only the scent behind. Created by Escentric Molecules mastermind Geza Schoen, it's thankfully available both with and without the aforementioned marketing gimmick, dubbed as 'Paint' (Eau de Toilette) and 'Scent' (Eau de Parfum) respectively.

Upon application, one initially observes an abundant sweetness, followed by its spicy aromatic properties. The juniper-led opening is brisk and crystalline, as the composition heads down a smoky woody-green route. With the inclusion of black hemlock (Queen Boadicea's preferred method of suicide, after being brutally defeated by the Romans), many of the notes remain indistinguishable as they meld into one another effortlessly.

Although the sweetness soon recedes, the potential dryness of both the styrax and leather is counterbalanced by complementary accords of tonka bean, labdanum and amber. As the tree moss gradually emerges, a sultry chypré-esque drydown ensues, against a soft bed of various musks (with synthetic castoreum allegedly being one of them). It's only during these final moments when a charred bitterness faintly presents itself.

Not to be confused with Boadicea The Victorious (another English niche house that surfaced the same year), Wode is packaged in an inappropriately shiny spray paint can, to symbolise "rebellion and anti-establishment values". Sadly, the fragrance itself fails to live up to expectations.

For while Wode is a pleasant creation, it isn't as provocative as the packaging, the vanishing paint concept nor the sentiments that fuelled Queen Boadicea's uprising.


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