Iris de Nuit by Heeley

*****
Year: 2007

Notes: angelica seed, ambrette seed, carrot seed, violet, iris, white cedar, ambergris
Iris de Nuit is a beautifully clean, crisp and minimal interpretation of iris, which is akin to a much lighter version of Serge Lutens' Iris Silver Mist (but with the earthy and vegetal aspects lowered several notches).

Just like Hermès' Hiris, the carrot seed and violet play vital roles in its overall genetic make-up, with hardly any sweetness. Also, any olfactory associations with lipstick or make-up bags are less prominent than in other iris offerings – exuding creamy and powdery flourishes. To one's nose, the violet is more prevalent than the iris but, on the whole, the composition still convinces with a very modest woody base.

However, while it possesses good lasting power, it's a whisper of a fragrance that will require multiple sprays to be satisfactorily noticeable. Its self-effacing demeanour may be alluring to some but, just like Penhaligon's and L'Artisan, one is left wondering if their stated concentrations are nothing more than a marketing fallacy.



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