Cardinal by Heeley

*****
Year: 2006

Notes: pink pepper, black pepper, white linen, frankincense, myrrh, labdanum, patchouli, vetiver, ambergris
A lighter, warmer and sweeter version of Comme des Garçons' Avignon is the first thought that springs to mind, when smelling Cardinal.

Possessing a clean soapy opening, one discerns a green woody base with a resinous sweetness. There's also an underlying coniferous facet, while the frankincense provides a citrus-like lift. And although it doesn't start out as peppery as originally expected, the drydown is noticeably dry and somewhat dusty.

Compared to other incense fragrances, Cardinal lacks an identity – venturing into the territory of Avignon, Josef Statkus' Josef Statkus and Montale's Full Incense, but failing to offer anything distinctive. Its weak performance on the skin also puts it at odds with the more robust Black Tourmaline by Olivier Durbano, and there are a slew of more worthwhile curios available (such as Etro's Messe de Minuit and Andy Tauer's Incense Extrême).

Overall, it's a lacklustre creation with poor longevity and sillage, and in desperate need of some originality.


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