Eau d'Ikar by Sisley

*****
Year: 2011

Notes: bergamot, lemon, bitter orange, carrot seed, mastic, spices, orange pekoe tea, jasmine, iris, reed, leather, vetiver, green cistus, sandalwood
Having reportedly been in development for twenty years, Eau d'Ikar is Sisley's first masculine fragrance, with a heavy emphasis on the mastic resin that's obtained from the mastic tree – a Mediterranean shrub mainly found in Greece and Corsica. However, the ugly retro ‘80s bottle design wasn't a particularly encouraging sign...

Opening with a fleeting nod to Eau de Campagne, the mastic is very evident and becomes more pronounced as the composition develops. It's not particularly smoky but initially bitter and piney to a small degree. However, it becomes more resinous in a soft, gummy and domesticated manner for the majority of its lifespan.

Fused with astringent citrus notes, as well as a milky core of spices and green florals, this woody-aromatic is well-crafted with the use of high-quality ingredients. Unfortunately, the sweet drydown is too musky, feeble and drab. Also, being an Eau de Toilette, such discrimination towards men isn't at all welcomed.

Requiring an exceedingly heavy application, its stifled translucency verges rather close to the olfactory style of Jean-Claude Elléna. Furthermore, one deems it as more unisex than resolutely masculine (especially since the floral sweetness has a greater presence than either the leather or vetiver accords).

While it's a pleasant fragrance, and in keeping with this house's rural bourgeois identity, it's still underwhelming and fails to reach the dizzy heights of their first three releases.


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