Rose 31 by Le Labo

*****
Year: 2006

Notes: cumin, pepper, nutmeg, clove, olibanum, rose, oud, cedar, vetiver, guaiac wood, cistus, amber, animalic notes
After a few tries, one is finally able to acknowledge Rose 31's redeeming qualities. Initially, it came across as a Mark Buxton wannabe but, with perfumer Daphné Bugey involved, there's evidently more warmth and sensuality inherent in the composition.

As always with Le Labo, the name is a complete misnomer. Instead, it's a spicy blend of woods and olibanum, with the rose being relegated to a supporting role. The rose is clean, restrained, elegant and glacial – giving off the aroma of rose water or freshly distilled rose petals. Thus, there's nothing noticeably heady or piercing about the floral aspect.

With regards to the remaining notes, the woods and spices are the most perceptible. The cumin adds an erotic dynamism to the rose, the pepper is noticeable but doesn't upstage the nutmeg and clove, the cedar is almost as subdued as the other woods, the olibanum is resinous rather than smoky, and the ambery musk foundation provides an animalic sweetness. The overall effect is that of a serene pot-pourri muskiness that gently emits off the skin, with a mild saltiness during the drydown.

Although it produces adequate projection, the same unfortunately can't be said about its unimpressive longevity (around three hours). While Pot-pourri 31 would have been a more appropriate name, it certainly has something to offer lovers of frankincense, woods, spices and... Iso E Super.


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