Poivre 23 by Le Labo

*****
Year: 2008

Notes: Bourbon pepper, frankincense, styrax, cistus labdanum, Indonesian patchouli, vanilla, guaiac wood, Australian sandalwood

Comment: Poivre 23 is the City Exclusive for London

Composed by Nathalie Lorson, Poivre 23 boasts a higher oil concentration than most Le Labo creations.

But if nothing else, Poivre 23 is just a richer version of the core of Caron's Parfum Sacré, with a more prominent woody underlining. Devoid of a floral heart, and with only the peppery top notes remaining, its lack of originality is rather disappointing for something branded as exclusive. However, it does offer a more unisex perspective for those who found Parfum Sacré too feminine for their tastes (if such a thing is possible).

Like other Le Labos, the pepper isn't the main component as it's only briefly present during the opening, gently interweaving with a light trail of frankincense. In fact, it's the vanilla, labdanum and woods that are the real stars of the show – creating a warm, balsamic and slightly spicy aroma, anchored by some creamy sandalwood.

While its persistence is evident over many hours, its evolution is noticeably understated and may be viewed as linear to some. Unfortunately, after about half-an-hour, it retreats too close to the skin but sporadically elevates further at brief intervals. Overall, it's a respectable release, which could have been amazing with more originality and projection. Based on the price alone, one would have naturally expected it.


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