Patchouli 24 by Le Labo

*****
Year: 2006

Notes: patchouli, birch tar, styrax, vanilla
With Patchouli 24, perfumer Annick Ménardo revises one of her earlier creations, Bulgari Black by Bulgari, but without the budgetary constraints.

Apart from occasional hints of camphor, there really isn't that much evidence of any patchouli. Just like Bulgari Black, Patchouli 24 is all about smoke, rubber, leather and vanilla. With a Lapsing Souchong tea nuance, due to the styrax and birch tar, the smoky leatheriness overwhelms the patchouli from the beginning. Furthermore, where Bulgari Black comes across as overtly synthetic, Patchouli 24 is much less so in contrast.

But in the midst of it all, a labdanum-like sweetness gradually tames these notes, while providing further brawn to the leathery facet. With regards to the vanilla, it's more balsamic than vanillic – supplementing a translucent, sweet and powdery pedestal. Towards the latter stages of its lifespan, what remains is a warm and dusty blond tobacco sweetness fused with a smattering of vanilla.

Lasting for more than six hours, and with just the right amount of sillage, Annick Ménardo has greatly improved upon a former olfactory achievement.


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