AnOther 13 by Le Labo

*****
Year: 2010

Notes: ambrettolide, helvetolide, salicylate, cetalox, ambroxan, delta-muscenone

Comment: AnOther 13 is a limited edition release

After Escentric Molecules' Molecule 02 and Eccentric 02, and Juliette Has a Gun's Not a Perfume, comes yet another ambroxan heavy offering. In collaboration with AnOther Magazine, AnOther 13 (originally called Ambrox 13) was created by Nathalie Lorson with only 500 bottles produced.

Touted as a synthetic tribute to ambergris, it's a cocktail of various musk aroma chemicals with ambery, woody and fruity green attributes, and a civet-like injection of delta-muscenone. The resultant composition is creamy, velvety smooth and completely linear, with subtle traces of cedar and honey. But with crude metallic top notes, it also comes across as clinical, one-dimensional and somewhat incomplete. Add its ephemeral skin hugging performance to the equation, and it's the equivalence of the generic drydown found in so many modern designer fragrances for men. Yes, it's that banal...

With other perfumers now dipping their toes into the waters of minimalist structures and restrained exuberance (particularly Serge Lutens, Andy Tauer and Parfumerie Générale's Pierre Guillaume) the future certainly doesn't look very encouraging for perfumery (IFRA-related or not).


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