Nuit Noire by Mona di Orio

*****
Year: 2006

Notes: orange, ginger, cardamom, cinnamon, orange blossom, tuberose, clove, olibanum, Atlas cedar, leather, amber, tonka bean, sandalwood, musk

Comment: Nuit Noire is part of the Signature Collection

The biggest issue that one has with many of the offerings from this house's regular line is how they rarely open in an inviting manner. One is usually either repulsed or confounded by the bizarre top notes that initially assault the nose. Whether or not the compositions eventually settle down is another matter entirely, but one can easily understand why these fragrances have been so hard to sell.

With regards to Nuit Noire, it attempts to be a modern rendition of the classic powdery floral. Unfortunately, the top notes are exceptionally foul – faecal spicy-citrus chords, against a backdrop of decaying florals. Although it supposedly transforms into a sensual tuberose scent much later, one is always left feeling either too nauseous or physically sick to even care.

Mona di Orio's early releases were once described as "gaudy and ostentatious". Personally, one couldn't agree more with such a succinct evaluation (even if this effort is allegedly a homage to Serge Lutens).


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