Jabu by Mona di Orio

*****
Year: 2009

Notes: South African petitgrain, orange blossom, sweet pea, Damascus rose, ylang-ylang, plum, myrrh, Siamese benzoin, amyris

Comment: Jabu is part of the Signature Collection

Jabu commences as a fruity-floral, with a plentiful serving of petitgrain and orange blossom. But there's nothing particularly sparkling or bright about the jammy opening.

Unfortunately, the proceedings are marred yet again by a dusty wax or plastic note – it isn't as intrusive but it's certainly present in the background. As the composition further develops, it transforms into something darker, more piercing and austere, as both the plum and myrrh gradually become more discernible over time. With a sandalwood-esque base, courtesy of the amyris, the drydown is more ambery and floral.

Although there are the odd interesting moments, one gets the distinct impression that it panders more towards a mainstream audience than its older siblings. While it succeeds somewhat, one can't help but sense a whiff of desperation in such an artistic compromise.


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