Ambra by Mazzolari

*****
Year: unknown

Notes: bergamot, lemon, mandarin, Chinese ginger, chamomile, ylang-ylang, Indonesian jasmine, amber, labdanum, Indonesian patchouli, Madagascan vanilla, Indian sandalwood
From personal experience, the majority of 'quality' amber offerings usually fall under two distinct categories: the ones ranging from respectable to amazing, and those that smell similar to an excessively sweet and spicy cola beverage. Just like Omnia Profumo's Ambra and Farmacia SS. Annunziata's Ambra Nera, Ambra comfortably slots into the latter category.

Consisting of a sweet opening of bergamot and spices, it's surprisingly reminiscent of Comptoir Sud Pacifique's long-discontinued Thé – a rather sweet and dark tea scent, which verges dangerously close to being redolent of cola bottle flavoured sweets. Both the florals and labdanum soon underpin the ginger and chamomile (possibly responsible for the tea aroma), transforming the composition from a syrupy aromatic to a bona fide oriental with floral flourishes.

Featuring a decorous foundation of patchouli, vanilla and sandalwood, it's not the resinous amber fragrance that one was presuming. Instead, its smooth progression somewhat darkens over time and, as the florals eventually dissipate, the ginger still continues to persist.

Although longevity is reasonably good, its projection soon dies down considerably. For a better interpretation of amber, there are numerous superior alternatives available – particularly Hermès' Hermèssence Ambre Narguilé, which approaches a vaguely similar olfactory premise but from a gourmand perspective.


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