Calicantus by Santa Maria Novella

*****
Year: unknown

Notes: citrus, aldehydes, calycanthus, amber, vanilla, woods
Calicantus is probably one of the most challenging floral creations from this house. Calycanthus is a dark red flower, which originates from a species of bush usually found in North America.

The opening is rather unpleasant, smelling like a putrid combination of alcohol and glue fumes. The emergence of the aldehydes, which greatly intensifies as time progresses, doesn't help matters either. By its powdery and (noticeably) soapy drydown, both the amber and vanilla are ultra-discreet.

Although it's an interesting composition, it's also redolent of a fragrance from a by-gone era. It's not necessarily awful but it's certainly an acquired taste. With average sillage and very good longevity, lovers of aldehydes may find it very appealing.


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