Notte Bianca by Linari

*****
Year: 2008

Notes: bergamot, pink grapefruit, Italian orange, absinthe, basil, clary sage, star anise, clove, tonka bean, amber, Haitian vetiver, white woods, cashmere wood, musk
Linari is a German niche fragrance house that was established in 2008. Interestingly enough, the founder is an industrial engineer (Rainer Diersche), who promises luxury inspired by Tuscany.

Employing some of the best noses in the industry (including Mark Buxton, Egon Oelkers and Maurice Roucel), each creation is housed in a bottle made from the finest French glass and accompanied by an African wenge cap. With a polished metallic collar and the ability to seat the wooden cap under the bottle, hence creating an "unusual optical effect", packaging design seems to be Rainer Diersche's main creative input.

Notte Bianca is one of two Mark Buxton creations for this house, with the second one being Angelo di Fiume. However, while it's not as terrible as Angelo di Fiume, it's still a lacklustre spicy-woody concoction (in a similar olfactory vein to Serge Lutens' Serge Noire or even Chaos by Donna Karan).

Based on one's experience with this house, it appears that more importance has been placed on the bottle and packaging design, with the fragrances being mere afterthoughts. Although these are well-respected perfumers, one is unable to discern the high-quality ingredients, or even a vague Mediterranean theme, with the creations themselves smelling both clinical and devoid of any passion.

With that said, Notte Bianca is nothing particularly original, with very little substance and poor longevity.


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