Secrets de Rose by Les Parfums de Rosine

*****
Year: 2009

Notes: bitter orange, plum, liquorice, saffron, cumin seed, rose, magnolia, ylang-ylang, jasmine, labdanum, amber, Himalayan oakmoss, sandalwood, musk
Secrets de Rose is yet a further case of one of the more impressive releases from this house initially beguiling, before proceeding to frustrate in equal measure.

Is Les Parfums de Rosine afraid of creating bold and tenacious fragrances? Or are whispering and fragile rose scents an essential aspect of their olfactory concept or identity? Once again, within roughly two to three hours, Secrets de Rose transforms into a skin scent that's barely discernible. Whether or not it's deliberate, the ultra-diplomatic demeanour of their offerings are a total deal-breaker.

With that said, it's a spicy (and rather dark) chypré, with a sweet and juicy plum accord attributing a nefarious influence over the innocent florals. The bitter orange provides just the right balance to the composition, with the liquorice lurking in the background. The emergence of both the amber and labdanum fuses with the remnants of the plum, generating a mysterious and carnal aroma with a subdued leathery hint. By the inevitable drydown, a deeply sensual oakmoss, sandalwood and musk base caresses the skin.

Sadly, none of this is enough to prevent it from performing disappointingly on the skin, like virtually all the other Rosines. This is very unfortunate, as there are at least two or three Les Parfums de Rosine creations that one would have seriously considered purchasing, had the situation been much different.


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