1740 (Marquis de Sade) by Histoires de Parfums

*****
Year: 2001

Notes: bergamot, davana, coriander, cardamom, patchouli, labdanum, immortelle, leather, elemi, birch, cedar, vanilla
1740 starts out with an exciting abundance of promise. With a well-executed combination of labdanum, leather, patchouli and vanilla, it initially masquerades itself as a Lutens-esque woody-leather.

Unfortunately, the everlasting flower (or immortelle) dominates and never really settles down – so much that, by the drydown, it smells similar to a more tolerable version of Annick Goutal's Sables. Furthermore, based on the sordid source of inspiration for the composition, one expected the use of more provocative notes. The leather is sorely lacking, and there most certainly aren't any skanky accords such as civet, castoreum or any other type of animalic musk. In fact, there's nothing really nefarious or offensive about it at all.

So, if you love immortelle, everlasting flower or fenugreek, it would be a very worthwhile fragrance to investigate. But it's a real pity because, if it wasn't so devoid of a backbone, it would have received a higher rating.


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